All about fertilizers
Plants make food by process called Photosynthesis, where Carbon dioxide & water in presence of sunlight gets converted into Sugars & carbohydrates, and this is what plants feed on. Fertilizers are like Vitamins for plants, which aids in carrying out the various functions like growing, photosynthesis, flowering, seeding, etc.
Fertilizers are classified as
- Macro-nutrients
- Micro-nutrients or trace elements
Macro-nutrients:
These are further classified as Primary & Secondary Macro-nutrients:
- Primary Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), Potassium (K)
- Secondary Calcium (Ca),
Boron (B), Chlorine (Cl), Manganese (Mn), Iron (Fe), Zinc (Zn), Copper (Cu), Molybdenum (Mo) and Selenium (Se).
To plants it makes not difference if the Fertilizer is Organic or Inorganic. All that it needs is Macronutrients & Micronutrients in the right proportion to grow. It does not care if the same is manufactured or is available as natural resource i.e cow dung, compost, manure, etc.
Solid vs Liquid Fertilizer
Plants absorb nutrients from roots or via opening in leaves. In nature, the roots play a major role in absorbing fertilizers. Remember roots do not eat soil, all it can do is absorb water & fertilizers dissolved in water. Hence it makes no difference to plant if fertilizer is available in solid or liquid form.
What Fertilizer to Buy?
Together Nitrogen, Phosphorous & Potassium is know as NPK. Composition of NPK differs as per plant requirement i.e NPK 19:19:19 or 24:19:19, etc. These rations determines as what % of element in more & in which ratio. NPK 19:19:19 means all three elements Nitrogen, Phosphorous & Potassium are in equal proportion.
Element: Use Purpose
Nitrogen Ability to produce chlorophyll & thus aids in plants growth
Phosphorous Roots development, Flowering & absorbing food
Potassium Protection against draught, cold, diseases
NPK 19:19:19 which has all nutrients in balanced proportion is recommended for Bonsai Plants. The fertilizer you buy should contain the other elements too as listed above but in very small quantities.
- Please refer instruction manual thoroughly
- Please seek usage instruction from expert if possible
- Fertilizers should be used sparingly
- They should used in small quantities, once every 2 weeks
- Preferably they should be diluted in water & than fed to the plants
- If sprayed on leaves it should be done during early morning or evening hours
- Excess usage can harm plans & even kill them
- Usage should be more in Growing season & less in dormant period
Ramesh Sinha
Ahmedabad Bonsai Club
9924332267
Join Indian Bonsai group on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/group.php?gid=134040618089
For more information, please visit this website.
http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/fertiliz.htm
About Fertilizing Bonsai
Plants make food by process called Photosynthesis, where Carbon dioxide & water in presence of sunlight gets converted into Sugars & carbohydrates, and this is what plants feed on. Fertilizers are like Vitamins for plants, which aids in carrying out the various functions like growing, photosynthesis, flowering, seeding, etc.
Fertilizers are classified as
- Macro-nutrients
- Micro-nutrients or trace elements
Macro-nutrients:
These are further classified as Primary & Secondary Macro-nutrients:
- Primary Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), Potassium (K)
- Secondary Calcium (Ca),
Boron (B), Chlorine (Cl), Manganese (Mn), Iron (Fe), Zinc (Zn), Copper (Cu), Molybdenum (Mo) and Selenium (Se).
To plants it makes not difference if the Fertilizer is Organic or Inorganic. All that it needs is Macronutrients & Micronutrients in the right proportion to grow. It does not care if the same is manufactured or is available as natural resource i.e cow dung, compost, manure, etc.
Solid vs Liquid Fertilizer
Plants absorb nutrients from roots or via opening in leaves. In nature, the roots play a major role in absorbing fertilizers. Remember roots do not eat soil, all it can do is absorb water & fertilizers dissolved in water. Hence it makes no difference to plant if fertilizer is available in solid or liquid form.
What Fertilizer to Buy?
Together Nitrogen, Phosphorous & Potassium is know as NPK. Composition of NPK differs as per plant requirement i.e NPK 19:19:19 or 24:19:19, etc. These rations determines as what % of element in more & in which ratio. NPK 19:19:19 means all three elements Nitrogen, Phosphorous & Potassium are in equal proportion.
Element: Use Purpose
Nitrogen Ability to produce chlorophyll & thus aids in plants growth
Phosphorous Roots development, Flowering & absorbing food
Potassium Protection against draught, cold, diseases
NPK 19:19:19 which has all nutrients in balanced proportion is recommended for Bonsai Plants. The fertilizer you buy should contain the other elements too as listed above but in very small quantities.
- Please refer instruction manual thoroughly
- Please seek usage instruction from expert if possible
- Fertilizers should be used sparingly
- They should used in small quantities, once every 2 weeks
- Preferably they should be diluted in water & than fed to the plants
- If sprayed on leaves it should be done during early morning or evening hours
- Excess usage can harm plans & even kill them
- Usage should be more in Growing season & less in dormant period
Ramesh Sinha
Ahmedabad Bonsai Club
9924332267
Join Indian Bonsai group on Facebook
For more information, please visit this website.
http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/fertiliz.htm
Bonsai Wiring tutorials - Session 3
All about wring a Bonsai
Detailed articles & video are available on following sites, kindly refer them.
• http://www.absbonsai.org/articles/wiring/wiring2.html
• http://www.bonsai4me.com
• http://www.artofbonsai.org
• http://www.youtube.com
Clipping vs Wiring Method
Bonsai can be made using clipping method, where you cut the unwanted branches & wait for new branch to appear at the desired position. This method take years to achieve the desired results and very few people practice it. You can get quick result by wiring the branches to the new desired position. Wiring a Bonsai is easy, but few points needs to be kept in mind before you wire the plant.
Copper vs. Aluminum wire
Ideally one should go for copper wire (annealed i.e. softened by controlled heating process), but Aluminum wire gives similar result & works out a lot cheaper than Copper wire. You get plain Aluminum wire & threaded Aluminum wire, I suggest you go for later one which is stronger.
Selection of wire Gauge
You get wire from 1 mm thickness to 8 mm or more thickness. It is advised to have 4 different gauges of wire ideally of 2, 4, 6, 8 mm thickness, to wire thicker or slender branches.
Selecting the proper wire gauge for wiring Bonsai
Take wire & hold it at 2 inch distance from the open end. Now try to bend the branch that needs to be wired with the open end by applying slight pressure.
- If the branch bends, you have proper gauge.
- If branch bends, repeat the same exercise with one size smaller wire.
- If the branch does not bend, try thicker gauge.
Selecting the proper wire length for wiring Bonsai
You will need 1.5 times the length of Trunk or Branch that needs to be wired because;
- Wire will be required for anchoring
- You wire at 45 degree angle & not in a straight or circular line
- If the length of the wire falls short, you will have to as such rewire
Wire Angle
Always wire at 45 degree angle to maximize the strength of wire.
- Close Wiring or wiring at lesser angle can block the flow of liquid in cambium/sap and kill the branch or tree
- Wiring at higher angle will defeat the purpose of wiring, as it cannot be shaped properly.
Preparation before you wire the Tree.
- Defoliate, so that you see the movement of Trunk/Branches clearly & also a clean trunk/tree is much easier to wire than one with leaves.
- Think of the style & shape of the tree & if possible draw it on paper. Sleep on your design overnight and make the changes if required. Once concluded, start to wire.
- Mark the branches/Trunk which need to be wired.
- Mark the areas from where the Branch/Trunk will have to bend
- Massage the Branches to make is easier to bend with help of thumb & forefinger, remember, if you cannot bend it, the wiring cannot.
Anchoring
Remember, if you do not anchor the wire, Branch/Trunk cannot be shaped, no matter how good you wiring is.
- Anchor in Ground
- Anchor on Trunk
- Anchor on Branch, when wiring a single branch
- Anchor on Opposite branches when wiring 2 branches
- Anchoring around the trunk when wiring a Fork branch
Wiring Sequence
Post wiring the plant should not look clumsy, but post wiring the tree should look more beautiful. So,
- Wire the Trunk first
- Than go on to Wire the Primary Branches
- Wire the secondary Branches & so on.
- Wire the lowest branches first & than the second lowest branch
When to wire?
Technically you can wire a Tree throughout the year, but if possible try to avoid it during growing season when new buds appear. For deciduous varieties, the ideal time to wire is during the lean season, when trees shed all their leaves.
- Avoid wiring it Spring & Monsoon when new bud appear.
When to remove wire?
- If wired during lean period, wire can be left for up to 6 months
- If wired during growing season, it will have to removed within 8 weeks
- Keep looking at the tree, if you think the wire is eating into the bark, then it is time to remove.
Important:
- Some people keep wire for longer period of time to make the tree look old
- Keeping wire for longer period of time will result in fattening at the base
Wiring Rules:
- Wire entry from Top, will aid in bending the branch down
- Wire entry from Bottom, will aid in lifting the branch up
- Wiring in clockwise (right branch) will aid in bring branch forward
- Wiring in anti-clockwise (right branch) will aid in pushing branch backward
- Remember strength of 2 smaller gauge wire is more than 1 wire with equal gauge
Bending post wiring
A professional will bend the branch, as he wires it, but you can bend once the wiring is complete. Remember to bend the branch, trunk as per the above rules. Bending against the rules can result in dead branch or even tree.
Remember you can bend a branch not more than 2/3 times, lesser the better. So think before you bend a branch, as you have limited trials. If you are not convinced in 2 or 3rd time, than remover the wire, let the branch heal for 2/3 months & than try again.
Stapling method:
Instead of wiring, you can bring two branches close to each other using stabling method. This method works well in case of twigs & roots only.
Raffia method:
When you have to wire stiff branch, than extra care need to be taken or else when you bend it, chances are it will break into 2 pieces. For the same you can take wet raffia or Coconut rope, and wind it closely on the section that needs to be wired. Alternatively you can use black take used for electrical insulation instead too. Than and than use higher gauge wire & wrap it on the raffia tape. Than bend the branch in desired position, in phased manner.
Air wiring method:
When wiring young branch you can use this method. Instead of wiring it close to bark or skin of the branch, you can wire it with loose hand, such that there is distance between wire & skin, allowing the young branch to grow & fatten.
Unwiring:
Unwiring is more difficult than wiring because, leaves would have grown in place. The best way to remove wire is to cut is using Bonsai wire cutter & remove it. Unwiring, with intention to reuse the wire has couple of disadvantages
- Annealed copped wire cannot be reused
- You will break leaves, twigs, even branch in process
- The branch shape may change because of excess pressure
Bonsai Training Material - Session 2
Remember, you just need to copy the nature:
The difference between you, me & the master is not knowledge of Bonsai but the touch of creativity. Unlike other art forms, where innovation is basically the creativity, in case of Bonsai, creativity lies in copying nature
Bonsai is a Living Art Form
Remember, unlike other art forms, Bonsai is a Living art. A tree will continue to grow and change during the seasons and as it ages. Bonsai is never complete, it can be perfect only for a period of time and than it adds a new dimension as it ages.
360 Degree Learning’s
You’ll learn the basic from me, but I recommend the following such that you can hone up your Bonsai skills
- Read Books & articles
- Go online, Join Indian Bonsai Group on Facebook
- View Websites, Read Blogs
- View/Admire Trees in nature, in your neighborhood
- Have a collection of Pictures
- Study a bit of Biology to know you plant nature
Bonsai schools
Bonsai Originated in China but Japan is where it flourished. There are two Bonsai methods;
# 1: Clip & Cut method (Chinese)
This is a slow process where you cut the unwanted branches, and wait for the new branch to appear at the desired position. This method belongs to old school & takes 5 to 10 years to get the desired shape. A lot depends on luck too.
# 2: Wiring method (Japanese)
This is a fast process, where with the help of wire, you can position a branch to the desired position & shape the tree as you like. This way you can achieve the desired shape in 2 to 3 years. Most of the bonsai are made this way, now.
Get inspired by nature
Bonsai is all about replicating tree as see in nature and not topiary where you try to cut & shape a plant in form of circle, square, bird or animal or any other form. Remember that Nature is odd, not even. Nature does not have a perfect shape like square, circle but nature comes in irregular, uneven shape & sizes.
Ideal Height of a Bonsai
- Less than 3 Inches (Shito), that grow in thumb nail size pots
- Less than 6 inches (Mame), trunk & branches are loosely visible
- Less than 8 - 12 Inches (Shohin), trunk & branches are clearly visible
- Large Bonsai – more than 12 Inches.
More Specific Names by Size:
- Up to 1 inch in height: Keishi Bonsai
- Up to 3 inch in height: Shito Bonsai
- Up to 6 inch in height: Mame Bonsai
- Up to 8 inch in height: Shohin Bonsai
- Up to 16 inch in height: Kifu Sho Bonsai
- Up to 24 inch in height: Chu Bonsai
- Up to 40 inch in height: Dai Bonsai
Understanding different components of a Tree?
- Trunk
- Branches
- Twigs
- Leaves (To process food)
- Roots (Nebari)
- Fruits & Flowers
A Bonsai is expected to have all of the above features.
Selecting a Pre Bonsai
A pre bonsai is a Tree which has most of the above tree features namely;
- Fat Trunk
- Multiple Branches
- Good Nebari
- Further, try to avoid,
- avoid scars on front side
- avoid a branch poking users (piegeon breast)
- Check roots, should be on side & back of the tree front.
- Identify the front side & check if it looks beautiful.
Trunk, the most important part of Bonsai
Look at any Tree, and the first thing that you will see will invariably be the Trunk of the Tree. Remember these;
- Shrubs do not have a trunk, but tree have a solid trunk.
- Bonsai is not made from a shrub; it is made from a tree.
Young vs Old Tree:
- Young trees are straight whereas Old trees have movement.
- Young trees are cylindrical, whereas Old trees taper at top
- Young trees are smooth, whereas Old trees are rough, have barks.
- Young trees have branch towards the sky, old trees bulge towards the earth
- Trunk movement (depends on style)
- Trunk movement will depend on the style you select
- The select style that is drastically opposite of natural movement
- The movement of Trunk & Branches should be in “S” Shape
- Sun, Wind & competition from other plant shape the Tree
- “B”, “M” or “O” shapes are unnatural
- Stick to any one of the basic style. Do not fuse two styles.
How do you shape a tree?
- By Wiring
- To bend thicker Trunk, branch you can make a wedge
- Use Bending tools (advance, used in branches mainly)
- Use Raffia method (Cloth plus wiring for heavy bending)
- Splitting trunk Method
- Fire Method – this will soften the branch (advance technique)
- Anchoring to pot or roots
Cutting Trunk
- Like a good surgeon, post surgery marks of operation should not be visible
- Buy Good tools & take good care of them
- Never use Rusted tools
- Clean tool when using it for two different species
- Use Knob Cutter (Will create hollow) that will heal faster
- Cut slanting, not horizontally
- Skin grafting
All about Tapering?
In case of cylindrical trunk, Cut & let the new branch become trunk
- Strangulation, tight wiring to allow the lower part to swell
- Proportionately decrease the width as you go up
- First branch is Fat, the top branches are thin
- Fuse two plant to make it thick (ficus varieties)
- Trunk width is equal to height of pot so fatter trunk, the better
- Use of Tunaki/ Dead wood
- Use of Stone
Ageing Bonsai
- Sari (is always on the trunk)
- Jin or dead wood
- Bird Holes
- Bark
Branch Placement
- Left, Right, Back, Front & repeat
- Right, Left, Back, Front, & repeat
- Right right, Left Left – not allowed
- First branch in Back in not allowed
- Spread of branches should be equal to height of the tree
- Avoid parallel branches
- Forearming
- First branch at 1/3rd the height of the tree
- As you go up, distance between two branches decreases
- No branches on the inner curves
- Develop Secondary, Tertiary and branches up to 5 or even 7th level
- The tree should look like a tree even without leaves, during autumn
Roots (Nebari)
- Equally spread, show age of tree
- You can wire to get the desired shape
- Tap root to be removed
- Root ball to be preserved
- Fibrous roots
- Stapling to place roots on right position
- Exposed roots
- On the rock style
Tips on selecting appropriate pot for your Bonsai
Tips on selecting appropriate pot for your Bonsai
#1 - When you look at a Bonsai Tree, it is the tree that should stand out & not the pot. If colour, shape or texture of the pot hits your eye first, something is seriously wrong. Thumb rule is when you look at the mirror, you should get to see your reflection without any distortions. If Golden frame of mirror hits your eye, than the purpose of the mirror is lost. Also remember $ 5 Bonsai & $500 Bonsai Pot does not make $505 Bonsai.
# 2 - The height of the pot should be equal to with diameter of the trunk.
# 4 - Angular pots (Rectangle, square, hexagonal design) go with Bonsai with Masculine characteristics like Sari, Jin, Dead branches, etc.
# 5 - Oval, round pots go well with Bonsai with Feminine characteristics like Flowers, soft branches, good foliage, etc.
# 6 - The depth of the pot should be slightly less than the spread of the Tree
# 7 - The length of the Pot should not be more than 2/3 of the tree size
# 8 - For cascade style - select appropriate pots, it should not be plated in oval or trays
# 9 - For Literati style, go for oval or round pots
# 10 - For forest style, go for rectangular trays with low height such that user can go into the landscape & see the plantations
# 11 - Go for unglazed pot for evergreen trees like pines, etc.
# 12 - Go for glazed pots for flowering, deciduous trees and pot can be of contracting colour to enhance the look of the bonsai during spring & autumn
# 13 - for mame bonsai, go for bright colour pots
# 14 - The base of the pot should be smaller than top of the top to give lighter effect
# 15 - Pots should have enough holes
remember, there is only one rule for training pots - bigger the better. The above rules are applicable only in case of a Trained bonsai, ready for display.
I will love to add more points, so please feel free to contribute.
Ramesh Sinha, Ahmedabad Bonsai Club
9924332267
February 2010 Updates
Ahmedabad Bonsai Club Registration for the year 2010
All members are requested to renew their registration by paying Rs.500 to Ahmedabad Bonsai Club. New member can join the club by paying Rs.2000 - Rs.1500 for Basic Training & Rs.500 towards annual club registration fees. For more details please contact Parag Mehta or Bhavesh Patel. New Training batch starts from March 2010.
Ahmedabad's First Bonsai Exhibition
Ahmedabad Bonsai Club completed its first anniversary in the month of February, and on this occasion it organized Ahmedabad’s first Bonsai Exhibition in association with Gujarat Horticulture Association. More than 50 Bonsai Plants & Saikei (Landscapes) were displayed where each and every member actively participated. A small competition was organized to judge the best 3 Bonsai & Saikei and to judge the same, Shri Jinabhai Patel, from Valsad was invited.
- First Price went to Jyoti Gade for her Ficus (Pipli)
- Second Price went to Jyotsna Patel for her Jade
- Third price went to Ramesh Sinha for his Jade
Top 3 Landscape
- First Price: Rishma Parikh
- Second Price: Rishma Parikh
- Third Price: Jyoti Gade
Next year we plan to showcase 100+ Bonsai & Landscape and we urge all members to start preparing for the same.
Ahmedabad Bonsai Club also got overwhelming response from the people at large and more than 100+ people have shown interest in learning & growing bonsai. We aim to accommodate some in the next session scheduled to start from March, 2010.
Bonsai Trees & Bonsai Pots Exhibition in Ahmedabad
Ahmedabad Bonsai Club will be completing 1 year in Feb 2009. On this occasions, Ahmedabad Bonsai Club is organizing exhibition of Bonsai Trees & Bonsai Pots on 12, 13 & 14th Feb, 2009 at Horticulture Nursery, Lawgarden, Ahmedabad.
Certificate will be given to the best Bonsai by Horticulture Association. All members are requested to actively participate in the event and showcase their best bonsai. The event will be Judged by a very senior person from Bonsai Field. For participation, please contact Parag, Bhavesh or Ramesh.
Bonsai Pots and Pre Bonsai materials are also displayed at Stall No. 14. All are invited to use this opportunity to buy good pots & pre bonsai stock.
Ramesh Sinha
Ahmedabad Bonsai Club
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