Remember, you just need to copy the nature:
The difference between you, me & the master is not knowledge of Bonsai but the touch of creativity. Unlike other art forms, where innovation is basically the creativity, in case of Bonsai, creativity lies in copying nature
Bonsai is a Living Art Form
Remember, unlike other art forms, Bonsai is a Living art. A tree will continue to grow and change during the seasons and as it ages. Bonsai is never complete, it can be perfect only for a period of time and than it adds a new dimension as it ages.
360 Degree Learning’s
You’ll learn the basic from me, but I recommend the following such that you can hone up your Bonsai skills
- Read Books & articles
- Go online, Join Indian Bonsai Group on Facebook
- View Websites, Read Blogs
- View/Admire Trees in nature, in your neighborhood
- Have a collection of Pictures
- Study a bit of Biology to know you plant nature
Bonsai schools
Bonsai Originated in China but Japan is where it flourished. There are two Bonsai methods;
# 1: Clip & Cut method (Chinese)
This is a slow process where you cut the unwanted branches, and wait for the new branch to appear at the desired position. This method belongs to old school & takes 5 to 10 years to get the desired shape. A lot depends on luck too.
# 2: Wiring method (Japanese)
This is a fast process, where with the help of wire, you can position a branch to the desired position & shape the tree as you like. This way you can achieve the desired shape in 2 to 3 years. Most of the bonsai are made this way, now.
Get inspired by nature
Bonsai is all about replicating tree as see in nature and not topiary where you try to cut & shape a plant in form of circle, square, bird or animal or any other form. Remember that Nature is odd, not even. Nature does not have a perfect shape like square, circle but nature comes in irregular, uneven shape & sizes.
Ideal Height of a Bonsai
- Less than 3 Inches (Shito), that grow in thumb nail size pots
- Less than 6 inches (Mame), trunk & branches are loosely visible
- Less than 8 - 12 Inches (Shohin), trunk & branches are clearly visible
- Large Bonsai – more than 12 Inches.
More Specific Names by Size:
- Up to 1 inch in height: Keishi Bonsai
- Up to 3 inch in height: Shito Bonsai
- Up to 6 inch in height: Mame Bonsai
- Up to 8 inch in height: Shohin Bonsai
- Up to 16 inch in height: Kifu Sho Bonsai
- Up to 24 inch in height: Chu Bonsai
- Up to 40 inch in height: Dai Bonsai
Understanding different components of a Tree?
- Trunk
- Branches
- Twigs
- Leaves (To process food)
- Roots (Nebari)
- Fruits & Flowers
A Bonsai is expected to have all of the above features.
Selecting a Pre Bonsai
A pre bonsai is a Tree which has most of the above tree features namely;
- Fat Trunk
- Multiple Branches
- Good Nebari
- Further, try to avoid,
- avoid scars on front side
- avoid a branch poking users (piegeon breast)
- Check roots, should be on side & back of the tree front.
- Identify the front side & check if it looks beautiful.
Trunk, the most important part of Bonsai
Look at any Tree, and the first thing that you will see will invariably be the Trunk of the Tree. Remember these;
- Shrubs do not have a trunk, but tree have a solid trunk.
- Bonsai is not made from a shrub; it is made from a tree.
Young vs Old Tree:
- Young trees are straight whereas Old trees have movement.
- Young trees are cylindrical, whereas Old trees taper at top
- Young trees are smooth, whereas Old trees are rough, have barks.
- Young trees have branch towards the sky, old trees bulge towards the earth
- Trunk movement (depends on style)
- Trunk movement will depend on the style you select
- The select style that is drastically opposite of natural movement
- The movement of Trunk & Branches should be in “S” Shape
- Sun, Wind & competition from other plant shape the Tree
- “B”, “M” or “O” shapes are unnatural
- Stick to any one of the basic style. Do not fuse two styles.
How do you shape a tree?
- By Wiring
- To bend thicker Trunk, branch you can make a wedge
- Use Bending tools (advance, used in branches mainly)
- Use Raffia method (Cloth plus wiring for heavy bending)
- Splitting trunk Method
- Fire Method – this will soften the branch (advance technique)
- Anchoring to pot or roots
Cutting Trunk
- Like a good surgeon, post surgery marks of operation should not be visible
- Buy Good tools & take good care of them
- Never use Rusted tools
- Clean tool when using it for two different species
- Use Knob Cutter (Will create hollow) that will heal faster
- Cut slanting, not horizontally
- Skin grafting
All about Tapering?
In case of cylindrical trunk, Cut & let the new branch become trunk
- Strangulation, tight wiring to allow the lower part to swell
- Proportionately decrease the width as you go up
- First branch is Fat, the top branches are thin
- Fuse two plant to make it thick (ficus varieties)
- Trunk width is equal to height of pot so fatter trunk, the better
- Use of Tunaki/ Dead wood
- Use of Stone
Ageing Bonsai
- Sari (is always on the trunk)
- Jin or dead wood
- Bird Holes
- Bark
Branch Placement
- Left, Right, Back, Front & repeat
- Right, Left, Back, Front, & repeat
- Right right, Left Left – not allowed
- First branch in Back in not allowed
- Spread of branches should be equal to height of the tree
- Avoid parallel branches
- Forearming
- First branch at 1/3rd the height of the tree
- As you go up, distance between two branches decreases
- No branches on the inner curves
- Develop Secondary, Tertiary and branches up to 5 or even 7th level
- The tree should look like a tree even without leaves, during autumn
Roots (Nebari)
- Equally spread, show age of tree
- You can wire to get the desired shape
- Tap root to be removed
- Root ball to be preserved
- Fibrous roots
- Stapling to place roots on right position
- Exposed roots
- On the rock style
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